It started out innocently enough.
If you watch the news, you may know that Southern California was issued Tsunami warnings over the weekend. Needless to say, the surf was quite large and exciting, a condition which experienced surfers wait for all year.
This morning, we woke up to my Surfer Boy's "tide chart application" on his iphone which predicted 3 to 4 foot waves at San O'Nofre surf beach. God forbid that anyone would actually look out the window, even when you live at the beach like we do, to monitor the surf. Heck no! That's why you've got your iphone!
So off we drove to my favorite surf beach, San O', for a little early morning fun in the sun. If you are a relatively new surfer, like me, you quickly discover that the majority of the folks out in the water have been surfing, oh, somewhere starting around the time they were embryos.
Once we got there, it looked something like this: double overhead waves, no breaks between the sets, surboards spinning high up into the air after a wipeout (if this ever happens to you, cover your face when you resurface. I speak from experience.) I looked at it and thought, "How hard can it be?"
I lasted exactly five minutes attempting to paddle out to the lineup whilst getting my board ripped away from my body by the ever approaching breaking waves. Luckily for me, my surfer boy husband was a lifeguard in a past incarnation, so he escorted me safely out of the water.
You have to admit though, I do look pretty good in my wetsuit.